On the Saturday we were away we were passing through the main shopping street when it started to rain. Well I say rain but it was the most torrential downpour I've seen in years. The whole street emptied as everyone ran into shops to take cover. Everyone that is except the dozens of unbrella sellers that literally popped up out of nowhere selling either small or large brollies for 2 or 4 euros. Which is an absolute bargain given how desperate everyone was for them. The police didn't seem too keen on them, which is odd seeing as there are hawkers and touts ALL OVER Naples, but equally the police didn't seem too keen on going out outisde in the rain either so it was a bit of a stand-off.
Anyway after we'd sheltered from the rain in the Disney shop and a nearby bar we got some brollies and headed off when Nicole noticed we were passing Pintauro's. This is the most famous bakers for sfogliatelle as it the shop that introducd them to the city in 1818. Sfogliatelle are a pastry with crispy, layer pastry and sweetend ricotto inside. We'd seen them mentioned in the guide books so knew what they were when we saw them at the hotel breakfast buffet. The ones there were small and nice but not amazing. However as we passed Pintauro I went in and managed to order a few, which given my complete lack of Italian and any idea of how to pronounce sfogliatelle is pretty amazing. These ones came warm, were a lot larger than the hotel buffet ones and were absolutely delicious. They were crispy and flaky on the outside and the filling was very citrusy wich made an amazing combination. If you get the chance go to Pintauro's and buy some.